22.8.14

A look: Vionnet Pret-A-Porter FW2014

Vionnet is being revived. It's still happening, she's not resurrected yet. This of course takes time. I mean, Dr.
Frankenstein didn't create his monster in a day, did he?

Tulips have been everywhere for fall at Vionnet - on the seats and on the clothes. Goga Ashkenazi, the creative director of ready to wear at Vionnet has appliqued tulips on her collection. Using a felt wool for most every of her garments, the designer achieved an interesting approach to the movement and construction of the clothes, incorporated decorative appliques, with or without tulip motives, and achieved, maybe even revived, a form we haven't seen in a while for her garments. And i mean that positively. The critics did not really love the show because of the strange flower (tulip) patches, materials (felt itches...) and the main colour of the collection, which was a fresh lime.

To the colour of lime looked perfect with the mood of the collection. It is the perfect shade of the stem of the flower (and tulips must've been the centerpoint of the collection). Tulip is considered a spring flower, isn't it? Maybe fall season is a renaissance for the designer, or she considers the season refreshing?

Anyway, the colour palette was well put together. The garment shapes are a little far from the original Vionnet, however Mlle. Vionnet is not designing it herself anymore. There are no rules for revivals anymore. I mean take a look at the Schiaparelli disaster. The collection is safe and conservative in general. The patches of lime on the dark blue coats and dresses are a perfect pop of colour; the square patches on some of the tops give the garments a slap of modernity; the slightly bulky shapes of the coats and the many jumpsuits in various cuts take us a couple of years back. I can't wait for the next Vionnet collection. It looks different, just a little, but enough.

VIONNET PRET-A-PORTER FW2014

9.8.14

A Look: Yohji Yamammoto Pret-a-Porter FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto's collection for the upcoming fall is a feast for shapes and prints. A Yohji way to keeping warm in winter - bulky, duvet like coats. Some printed in smartly arranged grafiitis or cosmic abstractions, some in designer's favourite black. Could this has been a denounciation of the super slim coat? Well, the designer is an abstractionist when explaining inspirations. Though it all started with dolls, he agreed in an interview. Though you may not be able to find a barbie doll anywhere near these garments, they have their own special charm. A cosmic kind of charm. The oversized coat for winter, which wraps you up like a blanket for a cold winter morning would be a dream come true for those who have to live through the -0 degree winters, no?

The collection as a whole is a journey of powerful dolls in the possibly gothic Arctic city. This is where my imagination takes me - duvet coats and dresses, head-to-toe knitwear knotted-sheet skirts should keep us warm for coming winter. This may not be our typical image of a doll. And i'd happily get my hands on one of these.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO PRET-A-PORTER FW2014