7.11.14

A look: Versus Versace Spring/Summer 2015

Anthony Vaccarello's debut for Versus Versace is a great fit for the brand. Donatella Versace tried reviving the brand with various colaborations including J.W.Anderson and Christopher Kane and it was a success. But with Anthony Vaccarello Donatella seems to have hit a jackpot.

Versus Versace from the start has been Donatella Versace's baby. She is the original party girl, who possibly hasn't slept since 1973. She could count for inspiration of Patsy Stone of Ab Fab, if any of you recall the show of the late nineties and early 2000's.

The collection is a cohesive wardrobe for a day-to-night big-city girl, who doesn't say no to staying out late into the morning hours, when she needs to work the next day. The designers sent a looks infused with Versace spirit - leather skirts and pants, details in gold, there was even a piece inspired by the famous pin dress Liz Hurley in the 90s, grecian motives and typical Versace prints. Of course the show missed the natural Versace excess, however the way of simplicity designers chose this time will read well commercially.

For Anthony Vaccarello Versace was one of the first shows he saw on TV. And these memories stick with him to this day, if we consider his own fashion brand. Let's hope Donatella Versace does not only try on Vaccarello per say. Let's hope he sticks around for the future. I'm eager to see the what's to come. 

3.11.14

Men's: Comme des Garcons Spring/Summer 2014/2015

Rei Kawakubo and her team start from zero every season and build ideas and fashions people love or hate. Some understand her as a creative mind and some don't, and it's our prerogative. It always comes down to the matter of taste, doesn't it?

With this menswear collection for the upcoming spring/summer season Rei Kawakubo showed that we don't need another war. Should I call this a protest? No, unless I want to compare this with Lagerfeld's latest "feminist-wanna-be" protest of model girls carrying marketing posters of anything but feminism. Rei Kawakubo presented a sentence. We don't need war, as far as I was able to read it from the clothes. The pinocchio-nosed shoes, which, if you think of it, may symbolise "liars" on the tips of their toes, are classically called the krakow, a shoe rooted deep in the history of clothing, as the first of many declarations against the war (as Tim Blanks said, "the late 14th century onward, a fashion persisted in Europe for a style of shoe called the krakow, with a toe so extravagantly long (called a poulaine) that it sometimes needed a whalebone or a string tied to the knee to keep it from getting in the way while its wearer was walking. At the Battle of Nicopolis in 1396, when the Ottomans routed an army of European crusaders, the French contingent was forced to cut off the tips of their poulaines in order to beat a speedy retreat. Proving such a hindrance on the battlefield would surely qualify the krakow as the early instrument of a proto-anti-war movement");
the cutout mixes of various classical army suiting with finest silks and exotic animal prints - the models seemed to be or rather been "have been" generals, who have already seen the war and never want to see it again - with details of unexpected beauty overcoats of army netting and two-rowed-buttons of gold in jackets and shirts with unfinished hemmings and deconstructed details.

A few graffitied statements on the backs and sides of the garments aside, which were clear to read to everyone, Rei Kawakubo's army of models dressed in general like attire declared peace rather than war. A thought from a creator is a force to reckon with. And Rei's force is as strong as it has ever been. 

31.10.14

Men's: Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2015

An understated italian luxury has been suggested as the main thing in Bottega Veneta's Spring/Summer Men's collection. A luxurious sportswear, an understatement, even a hidden luxury maybe - low cut round neck t-shirts, jogging pants, handcrafted vintage-looking accesories, dissheveled hair and a certain attitude - is being sold for this summer for men from this luxury brand. The staples of modern man's closet are the thing to have according to this show - boatnecks shirts and sweaters, hoodies in colours of low saturation, black and white, relaxed suits cut in perfect for summer linens paired with sporty shoes or perfect summer brogues in thin luxurious brown leather.

The devil here is in the details, as luxury nowadays is - a rolled hem neckline, a well placed pop of colour in subdued hues, and the handcrafted backpacks. A wardrobe for a relaxed man on the go, a bohemian or in this case a dancer, someone who lives in many places at the same and never seems to settle down; someone, who spends more time on a plane rather than his own bed. A collection for a modern man for sure, but haven't we seen this somewhere before?